21) Bulgarian ATM’s give you 10 lev notes most of the time. You wouldn’t believe how awesome this is! But Romanian ATMS give you 100 lei notes — very annoying! But they are only worth about $37 AUD .

22) Most people seem to live in Communist issue flats. These are usually big, plain, concrete, flats that are built together in one place. Since they fit a lot of people into a relatively small space, a city of 100,000 takes up less area than an Australian city of 40,000. It means that there are a lot more people walking the streets at night.

23) In most toilets you cannot flush your toilet paper. Instead, there is a bin next to the toilet bowl for you to dispose of your freshly dirtied paper. Surprisingly it doesn’t smell bad, as most of the paper is scented. Luckily, I’ve never been the person who had to empty the toilet paper bin. :-)

24) Overtaking is scarey!. Every overtake seems to be made with “only just” enough room. Most minibuses will start the overtaking process before the car coming the other way has gone past, which turns a two lane road into three lanes. And if you are merging lanes, just make sure sure that there is a gap 10cm longer than the length of your car and go for it! Dangerous? YES! I’m so gratefully to live in a country with good drivers.

25) Tailgating is epidemic. I don’t think anybody has ever heard of the 2 second rule. You know… the rule about being no closer than 2s to the car in front. If there was a rule here, it’d be more of a 0.5 metre rule — even on the highway at 100km/hr. Yes, it is scary being a passenger!

26) Coffee… haha… Most coffee is sold as espresso, or medium-blacks. And there you were thinking that I wasn’t going to mention the coffee situation Don’t bother ordering a milk based drink — it’ll either be Nescafe, or have super-terribly frothed milk.

At least it’s cheap. You can buy a rather average take-away shot in a clear plastic cup for 30 stotinki (25c). On the up side, we went out a few times for coffee and cake, and it only cost about 10lev (~$9AUD) for the three of us. So worth it! Although, I think my snobbiness for a good cup of coffee has disappeared. I’m sure it won’t take me long to get it back though :-P

27) “Quality” — Bulgarian goods. I bought an expensive (for Bulgaria; but only $35 in Aussie dollars) ski jacket to keep me warm. But, the first time I wore it, two bits of it broke. Building materials are also dodgy — we stayed at a newly renovated hotel, but all the fittings where already falling apart. I kept wanting to go around the room with a screwdriver and re-tighten every screw.

28) Rubbish is everywhere! There doesn’t appear to be the concept of “you bought it in? you take it out” that we have in Tasmania. Don’t look at the side of any highway — it’ll just look like a tip. Even in Turkey, rubbish was along every walking track we walked along and in every rock cave we looked in. I’ve always heard people comment about hoe clean Tasmania is. I guess I didn’t realise what dirty was until then :-)

29) Bulgarian fashion is funny — well at least stuck in the 90’s. Crimped hair, and pleather (plastic-leather) are currently the rage. And Elly would definitely want me to mention what she calls “nappy pants”. I’ll let you ask her about them :-)

30) Nobody seems to care about pollution. A shopping complex we went to in Romania was built across the road from a fertiliser factory. It didn’t smell very good. Also, everybody has these coal fire places in their houses. If you thought wood smoke pollution was bad in Launceston, you should smell the coal smoke pollution in Eastern Europe!

THE END

Well, I’m now about 25 mins off landing in Australia, so I better head. Bye!

11) There is no concept of a shower screen or curtain. Instead, the entire bathroom floor is treated as the floor of the shower. This means that EVERYTHING in the room gets wet — often including toilet paper! In one hostel we went to, the shower head was almost directly above the toilet seat. On the other hand there was been many times when the only place I could find to store my dry clothes & toiletries was on top on the toilet bowl (lid down of cause :-P).

12) Everybody has a mobile phone. At first, this sounds normal to us. But here, people will buy a phone before they will fix the hole in their roof, or fix their leaking sewage. This photo of a man riding a horse and cart while talking on his mobile phone says it best! I wonder if you could get booked for that?

13) All food is sold by grams In Bulgaria & Romania every menu and sign will state the weight of the meal. This is awesome when ordering a meal at a restaurant, but is really weird when buying an ice-cream cone. The three of us ordered 1-scoop ice-cream cones while in Sofia and the cost of each of our cones differed by about 60c. It was just like buying 4 pieces of ham from the deli — you have no idea how much it will cost you.

I’ve heard of two possible reasons for this. 1. That it’s a requirement of being a part of the EU to keep trade fair. 2. That it is left over from communism, where food was limited to rations so how much something weighed was important.

14) They still use 1 and 2 coins, and they are completely useless and annoying. The ice-cream I mentioned above came to 2.02 lev, so I gave the girl a 2 lev coin. Although, she insisted that I give her the extra 2 stotinki. She then took ages to sort through her coins so that she could give me exact change. What a waste of time! Also, Romania uses 1 lei notes (about $0.37 AUD) which leads to a LOT of notes in your pocket.

15) Food is awesome! Especially salads. Food might contain more fat, but it is far less processed. My bowels are going to be sad to head back to Australia.

16) You usually have to pay to use a public toilet. I wouldn’t mind if the toilets were well maintained, but usually they are much more disgusting than free Australian public toilets! All of the public toilets that I’ve been to in Romania have been smelly squats, and you only get a very small amount of toilet paper. I recommend holding on until Macca’s or your hostel!

Yes, I had to pay to use that!

17) Milk… haha… yeah… If you can find it. If you can it could be out of date — so make sure you check the date Stu. Oh, and it usually comes in a bag, or a uht container, and won’t taste fantastic.

18) Mobile phones are cheap, well the phone itself will cost you about the same, but call rates are much cheaper. In Romania, it was cheaper for me to use my Bulgarian SIM card (with global roaming) to SMS an Australian number than it would cost me to SMS an Australian number from Australia using my Australian SIM card.

19) Speed limits are pretty much ignored. The minibus (called a maxi-taxi here in Romania) didn’t slow down for towns and villages. He (and every other car) just kept driving through the tight village streets at highway speed. I’d hate to know what would happen if a kid jumped out onto the road.

20) Haskovo Zoo (In English: Haskovo Animal Prison). To waste some time we went here for a walk. Apparently some foreigner recently paid the zoo a lot of money to have a large bear (that was living in a cage there) moved to a more humane location. I think somebody should do the same for this poor lion :-(

Week 1

About two weeks ago I landed in Istanbul after a loooong flight (Parts 1, & 2), had a look around, and stayed a night there. The next day I caught the bus to Haskovo, Bulgaria and stayed there for a few days with Elly & Stu. They are currently living there in an old communist style flat and teaching English to a 6yo. There we saw everything Haskovo has to offer, met some of the other Aussies there, and went a few times into the Mahalle. The Mahalle is a really interesting place (we would probably call it a slum), and I hope to write more about it in another post. A photo of the awesome Haskovo tour to the abandoned & incomplete power plant is shown below. Apparently, it never got completed due to the fall of Communism.

Checking out Bulgaria

Elly & Stu have also written some posts about these few days —
part 1,
part 2

Once we (read ‘me’) got bored of Haskovo, Elly, Stu, & I started out on our tour of Bulgaria by catching a bus to Plovdiv. Plovdiv would be my favourite Bulgarian city so far because it’s a great mix of new and old. We stayed a night there in a 8 bed dorm room, were we got woken up by some drunk travellers who came back drunk at 5am and then got up to some [not so] hush hush shenanigans. Memories = Repressed :-).

The next day we caught the very cool train to Bansko. Bansko is an up and coming ski-resort, and has recently become the most developed ski-resort in the Balkans. Luckily for us, it was the off season, so the place wasn’t crawling with tourists. It also meant that we stayed in rather nice hotel, for only $13/night which is much cheaper than what we could have stayed in a hostel. for. While there we climbed most of the way up Mt. Vihren, which you can read about on Elly’s blog post, The Grand Tour Part 2. Here’s one of the MANY photos that I took while up there:

After Bansko, we bused to Sofia and checked that our for about 4-5 hours. I couldn’t stand it there. It stunk of pollution, looked dirty, and there was way too many beggars who were trying to scam off us. When we got to the train station, somebody came up to me asking if they could help me. My first thought was that it was a scam, but then he seems to be wanted to help me find where we were going, and not asking for money. Maybe he works here I thought? Anyway, turns out he wanted money for helping us out. So I reluctantly offered him 2 lev (only about $1.60, but worth about $5 for them), but he wouldn’t take it and insisted I give him 5 lev. Once I did that, he tried to get 5 more lev off Stu, but I told him sternly that 5 lev was more than enough for showing us where the ticket office was and off he pottered.

Heading to Romania

Elly & Stu have also written some posts about these few days —
part 3,

That night we caught the night train to București, Romania. It was a 9 hour journey, but didn’t seem to take that long since we had a sleeper car. The border crossing was pretty uneventful – we didn’t even need to get out of our beds. The Romanian guard did make us laugh we he said, “Australia? – Kangaroo”. The train then crossed the Danube and we were in Romania.

We arrived at București at 5:45am and since it was dark, we didn’t know what to do besides buying some barely drinkable coffee at macca’s so we could use their wifi while waiting for it to become light outside. That was good, because weren’t planning on coming to Romania as quick as we did, so we had no idea what to do. The most interesting part of McD’s was not the coffee (that was sickening) but have the staff physically remove a beggar who was trying to get me to buy him something. It’s really sad that beggars are really common here. I had a kid harrasing me outside an ATM I was trying to use yesterday. I’m still undecided about how I want to react to them because it’s impossible to give to everybody. When I get a better idea, I think think I should do a blog post about it. Any ideas?

Anyway, back to the story… We left macca’s, passed though the gauntlet of taxi drivers, walked for 3-4 hours with our packs, and arrived at the maxi-taxi station. Oh yeah, we had a bit of “fun” trying to find the place without a map. Elly commented that “you know it’s bad when Humphrey starts whinging!”.

Now these maxi-taxi’s require an explanation. They are Mercedes Benz vans, with seats, and a couple of bars screwed into the walls for people to hang on to. They are a long way from comfortable and leg-room is non-existent. Of course, that is only if you get a seat. According to the sign on the inside of one of these mini-buses it was able to carry 16 seated and 16 standing. That’s 32 people in a tiny van thing! Yesterday, while standing up in a maxi-taxi, one of the screws fastening the bar was I hanging onto came loose, “CL-ICK”. Was a little freaky Oh, and the drivers cain the maxi-taxis! They tailgate VERY close, overtake with less than a metre to spare, honk, and don’t really slow down for village streets. These drivers would loose their licences very quickly in Australia. But, these are the easiest and quickest way to travel around Romania. Thanks to jeffltaylor2 for uploading this photo of one to Flickr.

In Romania

The maxi-taxi to Târgu Mureş took a bit over 5 hours. You can tell he was speeding because it took us 6 hours on the way back. Once there we stayed with the Nairns for a number of days. On Sunday, James took us to a local church, followed by a “just as spiritual” game of paint-ball. In the last round I broke the main rule: Don’t shoot anybody closer than 5m. Sorry for the friendly-fire Stu!

While there we also did a heap of shopping, chilling out, and going out for the odd drink. Yesterday we checked out the village of Sighişoara, which is a place where Vlad (The actual Dracula) once lived. It was a really nice historical village, and we also managed to find the best coffee that I’ve had in either Bulgaria or Romania.

Back to Bulgaria

Today we caught the maxi-taxi back to București, where we are currently. Tomorrow we’re planning on catching the train back to Elly & Stu’s place, where I’ll spend a couple of nights before heading onto Turkey. We’re still not too sure how the Turkish leg will work out. I don’t think Elly & Stu are able to spend a whole two weeks in Turkey, so they will either join me for the first week, or stay in Bulgaria and rendezvous with me somewhere in Turkey. Everything else has just fallen into place so far, so I trust that will too.

Here’s Elly being tough at the train station:

Thanks for reading my blog. If you were gullible enough to fall for my recent facebook status update, then I extend a “ha ha” in your general direction. And, remember about the commenting rule – commenting is cool, just like school.

PS - You may have noticed that I’ve added a new link to the top of my blog for a google map of my trip. I’m planning on adding the Romanian leg of the journey to the map soon.

PPS - I’m currently proof-reading this post while sitting on the aforementioned train, and have about 2.5 hours left. We’re in the only room that doesn’t have a working light so it’s heaps dark in here and therefore hard to type. Hopefully we can work out when we are at the right station.

NEWS FLASH - We just noticed that it’s snowing outside the train carriage! Hooray for travelling in a train through snow.

Well, I’ve already watched 2 episodes of Dexter on this train trip and I have exactly enough battery power for 1 more episode. So chao chao. Oh, by the time I publish this we’ll be back at Elly & Stu’s commy flat.

La revedere!

1) EVERYBODY smokes EVERYWHERE. Cafes, pubs, restaurants, the street, toilets, and everywhere STINKS like cigarette smoke. My clothes consistently smell of the stuff. I wonder what their lung cancer rates are? I definitely won’t miss being able to go out for a coffee and not have to breathe in 10 peoples cigarette smoke. Oh, and it seems totally ok to smoke in front of children!

2) Beer is CHEAP, generally of a better quality, and can be bought anywhere — The supermarket, KFC, the fridge at the backpackers hostel, corner shops, and just about anywhere. It’s often cheaper than water, and always cheaper than Cuke! Of cause, there is (apparently) a much bigger problem with alcoholism here. I wonder why?

It’s great to go out to some trendy place and be able to grab a pint (~500ml) of some tasty European beer for less than $1AUD. Wine is cheap too. A couple of nights ago we were drinking a fantastic pinot noir that cost about 12 lei ($4.71AUD) for a 1.5 litre bottle. Although it’s not as cheap for the people here (who have a much lower average wage than us Australians). Here’s a picture of a German beer sitting on a supermarket shelf.

3) Power points don’t have on/off switches. Every time I plug in my computer I get a big blue arc!

4) Music in Bulgaria is terrible! 50% of the music Bulgarian cafes, pubs, buses, etc play is the English music from the 90’s. On the plus side Romanian have a good taste in music — I’ve heard Coldplay, Franz Ferdinand, and The Living End (Yes, Australian music in Romania!).

Actually, this leads into a funny story: Today, we walked in a shop and we all heard Eskimo Joe playing. After we all commented on how cool it was to hear Australian music in a shop, we realised that I had accidentally hit the play button on my phone!

5) Wires go everywhere. Nobody seems to hide wiring inside cabinets or walls. The installation of internet at Elly & Stu’s flat involves an Ethernet cable hanging down the side of the apartment complex from the roof, and coming into the flat via a freshly drilled hole. Here’s a picture of a bunch of wires that are right next to the front door of Elly & Stu’s communist flat.

6) Electric buses — YES you heard me right. They look like normal buses, but have big arms that reach out to the overhead wires. I’m still yet to catch one though. I wonder what happens if they decide to not follow the wires and take a different street.

7) ATM’s don’t appear to charge fees. I could be wrong, but none are appearing on my statement except for the ones that my bank charge :-)

Internet is cheap as chips. Yes, I’m serious! You could get a months worth of internet here for less than a bag of seaport chips. I was talking to a Bulgarian about how ridiculously expensive Australian internet is. It was quite an effort to explain the concept of a download quota. They all just have unlimited downloads here.

9) Pedestrian lights & zebra crossings don’t mean a thing. They more are just a suggested place and time for you to considering crossing the road. Most cars ignore zebra crossing completely, and it’s not uncommon for a car to run a red light and almost knock over a few good looking Aussies.

10) There are just 3 kinds of cheese — yellow, white, or blue.

So that ends part one of the quirks of Eastern Europe. I have a list of about 20 more, that I hope to finish putting to together over the next couple of days. So keep posted. And remember to comment or I’ll shoot you in the head with a quality Romanian paint-ball gun :-P