The Bansko Train

A couple of days ago we caught the super narrow gauge train from Plovdiv to Bansko. Now when I say super narrow gauge, I actually mean, “The train track rails are so narrow compared the width of the train that I’m surprised it stays on the rails.” This is a really really old line that winds its way up through mountains. This train is definitely, definitely, definitely, the coolest and most scenic way to get to Bansko. If you are ever in Bulgaria I absolutely recommend it. It was well worth the 7 Lev (~$6AUD)! Actually, we were supposed to get a group discount of about 1 Lev, but couldn’t ask for it since we can’t speak Bulgarian :-P

What: Old-school train trip through the mountains
Where: From Plovdiv to the Bansko ski resort (actually Bansko is the 2nd last station)
How Much: About 6-7 LEV Each.
How Long: About 6 hours in total
How Often: 3 times a day, in both directions.

Here’s a VERY rough map of where he train goes. View in a larger map

Here’s what the train looks like:

And check out how narrow the rail gauge is!

Oh, and the diesel smoke looks and smells awesome.

Scenery

It was the scenery that made this train trip the best train trip ever. The track winds its way up many mountain valleys, through tunnels, across open plains, alongside rivers, through traditional Bulgarian villages, farms, & woodlands. This is definitely the best way to see Bulgaria at its most authentic!

Life in the Bulgarian mountains is so different to that in Australia. Fences are almost non-existent. Instead the locals were mostly sitting out in the fields watching their cattle, sheep, or goats graze. Farmers working in their fields would sit their kids up on the bank to wave at us as we chuffed on by.

There was a great mix of old and new technology. We often saw a near new car stuck behind a horse and cart on the roads. Somer farmers seemed to have some high-tech, diesel powered grass cutter, but were still using horse and carts to get around.

There were many farms along the way too. From cotton, to hops, to grapes, to tobacco, to corn (& for you Tom, indigo & coffee :-p) Looks like a really traditional way of life.

So, if you want to get a good look at genuine Bulgaria away from the touristy cities and see some beautiful villages, forests, and people I highly recommend this train trip. It was a bit disappointing that our stop was a town that has recently been developed into a ski resort. If I ever to do the trip again, I would love to get off at one of the small villages along the way. Maybe try to find some lodging with some of the local Turks? Maybe hitch up the road? That would so push me out of my comfort zone, but would be awesome to the max!

Occupational Health & Safety

Occupational health & WHAT? This is a phrase that you would have a lot of trouble translating into Bulgarian. It’s not that the words don’t exist, it’s that there is absolutely no concept of public liability on this train (or even this country!) The train is definitely safe, but they let you do whatev! Ok, this train was travelling pretty slow (no faster than 30-50km/hr), but still. Here are some examples:

1. At most train stations there is no overpass, you walk across the tracks to get to your train.
2. On Australian trains you are not allowed to “ride on the gap” — that is to travel on the step between carriages. I would have travelled for at least an hour standing outside between carriages. It makes the scenery (and ground) feel so close!
3. Nobody cares about what percentage of your body is hanging out the window while the train is moving. It’s a “poke your head out at own risk” kind of thing. The windows opened up a long way, so I spent most of the 5.5 hr journey with my head (and camera) poking out. I think I got a mild case of wind burn from this trip, maybe? Could be sunburn, but this ranga doesn’t appear to get burnt in the Northern Hemisphere sun.

Back to the train… You learn very quickly that you need to keep an eye on what is coming up. I remember having to shout out “ROCK, ROCK!!” or “TUNNEL, TUNNEL!!” to Elly a couple of times Also, the telegraph wires were sometimes a bit too close to the carriage for comfort.

4… Why close the carriage door when you can leave it open and look out? It was quite relaxing to sit in the step of the door and take in the scenery. I love how the conductor standing on the platform just gave a friendly wave to Elly & Stu while they sat in the doorway as the train left one of the many stations.

Elly suggested that next time we should try and ride on the roof. Although, I wonder what would happen when the train goes through a tunnel :-P

I’m going to miss this lax of heath and safely when I get back to Australia. I hate how pedantic Australians are about safely. Although, it’s not really safety, but more a fear of being sued. Here in Bulgaria it appears to be more of a “do anything at your own risk” policy. Although, I do think they have taken it too far. Like the guy this morning who was chain-sawing firewood in the play area of a local kindergarten while the kids were enjoying recess only metres away. Although, I guess kids here have a much better danger-o-metre here!

But don’t worry, the train was moving really slow and nothing really felt dangerous. It was more that we could do the things that we actually wanted to do without getting in trouble for it You should be so jealous Dan!

Blogologue

I hope to do some more blogging soon! We’re hoping to catch an overnight bus or train to Romania tonight (Update: we’re on that train), so if my netbook battery lasts until then, you might have some more blog posts to read soon :-)

Remember that people who comment on blogs are ridicuously ridiculously good looking, and people who read blogs without commenting are the scum of the intertubes and should have their fingerprints burnt off with a Bulgarian cigarette lighter. Only kidding… Or am I? :-)

Oh, and here are some more cool photos of the trip:

UPDATE: I’ve uploaded a heap more photos to facebook here.